For non-climbers, it will be the first two paragraphs and "Pitfalls on Goal-Setting" that will still be relate-able. :-)
------------------
Goal-setting is the establishment of performance expectations and the planning of a process to attain them. It directs attention. The more specific the goal, the easier it is to focus on, and thus, achieve. The setting of goals is the method by which we motivate to train. It is extraordinarily difficult to go to the gym on a regular basis throughout the off-season without a picture in your head of the benefits to come. Most athletes set not only season goals, but they set goals daily. In fact, it happens on many different levels:
- Moment
- Event
- Day
- Short-term
- Long-term
- Lifetime
For example, you might have the short-term goal of leading a particular climb, but the goal for this climbing day is just to figure out which gear the climb takes and to learn the crux moves. The same short-term goal can lead to a greater, long-term goal, such as free climbing a big wall.
Setting goals is more than just thinking of some climbs you’d like to do. Studies show that goals that are written down are more than twice as likely to be achieved. A good place to start is to get a vision for the future – a lifetime set of goals. These will inevitably transform as time goes, but they will help shape your long-term goals.
After you have your vision for the future, follow just a few simple steps:
- Set Long-Term Goals. Write down 2-3 climbs you’d like to do THIS SEASON. These need to be within the realm of achievability, but should also stretch your climbing slightly. These are going to be called performance goals. You can also set training goals and process goals. For maximum improvement, try to set goals that work your weaknesses. Training goals might involve improving the number of pull-ups you can do, increasing your total climbing volume, or another measurable factor of training. Process goals might include improving mental facets of your climbing, technical preparation, or a change in body composition. Again, make sure these things are measurable.
- Set Short-Term Goals. Start with a goal you can likely achieve. Your whole season should not be built around doing just one project route. You should plan on ticking off 2-3 short-term goals per month on the way to completing your season goal. If your long term goals include climbing a 5.12c, increasing endurance by 15%, and losing 6 pounds, a short term goal for an early season month might look like this: (A) Climb minimum 20 pitches per week this month / (B) Redpoint 3 routes 5.11c or 5.11d / (C) Drop bodyweight by 2 pounds
- Create Goals for Each Workout or Day of Climbing. Performances improve with direction. Before you get to the crag, you should have a picture of what you are going to do, and it should be in line with your long-term goals. Each workout in the gym should follow the same rules. It’s nice to just hang out bouldering with your friends, but is it really helping you improve?
- Check Your Progress. From time to time, you should review your progress toward your goals. Make adjustments as necessary: If you are very close to reaching your season goal halfway through the season, you might consider setting a more challenging goal. Likewise, if you are not completing your short-term goals, you need to assess why that is, and adjust your program.
- Check the Goal off the List. When you have achieved a goal, move on to the next one using the same process. Make the goal more challenging, commit to working a little harder, and get down to business.
GOAL-SETTING GUIDELINES
- Multiple goals enhance performance. You should be working toward several goals concurrently. These should be prioritized.
- Make goals challenging, but realistic.
- Goals should be measurable and self-focused.
- Avoid setting goals that depend on factors out of your control.
- Goals must have time limits.
- Set positive rather than negative goals. Rather than “avoid failure” think “attain success”.
- Adjust goals, allowing for unknown variables and other facets of life.
SPECIFICS OF SETTING GOALS
Performance Goals
A. Events
- Specific climbs or competitions you are training for
- Write down the types of climbs you will be doing
- Challenges (i.e. 20 pitch day, onsighting day)
B. Performances
- Actual performance objectives, like onsighting 5 5.12s, redpointing a grade higher…
- Be realistic; keep within your possible performance parameters.
- Include short term goals
C. Physical Preparation
- List your physical strengths and weaknesses
- Prioritize the areas that need improvement
- For example, identify your top 3 weaknesses, and focus training on them
Process Goals
A. Psychological Preparation
- Strengths and weaknesses
- Work very hard on primary weakness, exploit your strengths. For example, work on controlling irrational fear, focus on positive attitude, and knowledge of talent.
b. Technical Preparation
- Ask for feedback from partners
- Pay attention to what causes failure in performance, It’s not always weak fingers!
- Pick specifics to work on: edging, keeping hips in, breathing, toeing in to pockets, finding rests…
- Plan to work on these things one at a time.
f. Tests and Standards
- Body weight
- Body composition
PITFALLS IN GOAL-SETTING
- Lack of goals. The very worst error in setting goals is not setting any at all. How can you perform if you have no parameters to test against?
- Long-term goals only. Many climbers set only one or a couple of long-term goals. These goals take so long to achieve that focus is most often lost along the way.
- Dreaming. Setting unachievable goals is completely uninspiring.
- Lack of commitment. If you aren’t committed to your goals, don’t waste your time setting them. A half-hearted effort is no effort at all.
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2009/12/24/set-some-goals/
